Food · Bhaktapur
A short essay on juju dhau
Bhaktapur's "king of yoghurt" is more interesting than the postcard says. Earthen pots, century-old families, and why the texture is what it is.
Juju dhau
Juju dhau — "the king of yoghurt" — is one of those things you can buy in Kathmandu but should eat in Bhaktapur. The reason is fresh.
The yoghurt comes in unglazed clay pots about the size of a small cup. The clay matters. The porous walls let some of the water wick out, concentrating the rest. By the time you eat it the texture is between custard and cheese.
A handful of families in Bhaktapur make most of the city's juju dhau. The recipe is closely held. Buffalo milk, cardamom, a hint of saffron, and a starter culture passed forward across generations. The fermentation is slow.
You can buy a pot for under Rs 100 in Bhaktapur Durbar Square. Eat it sitting on the edge of the square, with the sun coming off the brick.